2018 Domaine Diochon Moulin-a-Vent Vieilles Vignes

Year: 2018
Appellation: Beaujolais
Country: France
Wine Advocate: 94
Red Wine
Alcohol by Volume: 13.0%
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"Revisited a year later, the 2018 Moulin-à-Vent Vieilles Vignes continues to show very well, exhibiting a rich and inviting bouquet of black cherries, licorice, smoked meats, anise, orange rind and peonies. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and enveloping, its deep core of fruit is framed by ripe tannins and succulent acids, concluding with a sapid finish. This is sufficiently demonstrative to drink well today-preferably with a rare steak or similar-but it will also age well. In style, it's quite reminiscent of the 2009, which is in its prime.

As I've written before, Thomas Patenôtre today superintends this five-hectare Moulin-à-Vent domaine, continuing to fashion resolutely classical expressions of the appellation, perpetuating the style favored by Bernard Diochon. Old vines, whole-cluster vinification, classical macerations and élevage in foudre are the order of the day. After making a success of challenging circumstances after the hail of 2016 and 2017, Patenôtre realized a very successful 2018 that exemplifies everything admirers of old-school cru Beaujolais-the present writer included-are looking for, and his 2019 vintage is just as promising." (WA)

Winery Notes:
At the foot of the rolling vineyards of Moulin-à-Vent, just across the road from its famous namesake windmill, Domaine Diochon has been making Beaujolais the old-fashioned way since 1935. Bernard Diochon, the beloved, mustachioed character immortalized by photographer Gail Skoff, succeeded his father in 1967. As a torch bearer to the ancestral methods passed down to him, Bernard explains, I like tannic wines without heaviness; with fruit and floral aromas. I don’t like weighty wines with hard tannins. My favorite wines are St Emilion from Bordeaux, and Chambolle-Musigny and Nuits-St-Georges from Burgundy. Every vigneron naturally chooses to make wines in the style they prefer. It works well that Kermit and I share the same taste; it’s what has allowed our relationship to last for so long.

Picking when the grapes are perfectly mature, traditional whole cluster fermentations, aging in large old oak foudres, and bottling unfiltered in the springtime have characterized the house style.

According to Bernard, one of the most unique qualities of the domaine is the quality of the soil that they farm. Crumbly granite allows the vines to plunge easily towards “gore” subsoil, which feeds the vines, while adding a pronounced mineral component to the wine. (James E. Wilson, author of Terroir, explains gore to be an accumulated mass of sand and thin clay deposits with weathered feldspars, mica, and quartz.) Given the old age of his vines, anywhere between forty and one hundred years old, yields are naturally small. These are wines that are easy to enjoy in their youth but can handle years of cellar aging with great ease.

In 2007, Bernard wanted to retire but had no heirs. He appointed Thomas Patenôtre as his heir apparent, which has turned out to be an easy transition. We are grateful that the Diochon tradition continues through Thomas, safeguarding the ancestral methods that distinguish real Beaujolais from the mass-produced and highly over-commercialized juice that floods the market today.