2017 Ridge Zinfandel Ponzo

Year: 2017
Appellation: Russian River Valley
Country: USA - California
Wine Advocate: 91
Vinous Media: 92
James Suckling: 93
Jeb Dunnuck: 92
Red Wine
Alcohol by Volume: 14.6%
Price :
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98% Zinfandel, 2% Petite Sirah

"The 2017 Zinfandel Ponzo Vineyards is blended of 98% Zinfandel and 2% Petite Sirah. It aged ten months in 100% air-dried American oak, 10% new. Medium ruby-purple colored, it opens with youthfully gregarious aromas of sliced stone fruits (smoked cranberries and red cherries), desiccated flowers, baked blueberries and gobs of underbrush, licorice and exotic spices. It's medium to full-bodied, layered, perfumed and light on its feet, with a ripe, grainy frame and just enough juicy freshness on the long, floral finish.

Eric Baugher says winter rains saved the vines during the heat wave in 2017. “It was a wetter year,” he remembers, “and the vines had a chance to use those water resources through the growing season. So it was a slower, more steady progression toward ripeness. It got hot during Labor Day, but the vines got through fine because there was so much water in the soil.” Alcohols were a bit lower this vintage, and Baugher has been focused on bringing down overall levels. “We’ve been disciplined about picking earlier,” he comments, noting that in 2017 most of the fruit was off the vine before the heat. “By Labor Day all the fruit at Geyserville was in,” he says. “Carignan and Petite Sirah came in after the heat but didn’t show signs of over-ripening. Carignan thrives in the heat and isn’t susceptible to shrivel, so every drop went into the Geyserville blend this year.”

Baugher is optimistic about quality in 2018. “In 2018 we slipped back to drought. There was no rain in January or February at all. It was unusually dry, and we were pushing budbreak. Then it got really cold in March and April, and things stalled out again. The summer was nice with even temperatures, no heat spikes. We ended up with good weather at bloom and about average yields.” Uniform ripeness was a hallmark of the vintage for Baugher. “2018 had much more uniform ripening, which leads to a more complete, sensuous expression,” he says. “The Zinfandels have deep flavors and a quality of tannins I don’t see every year with that grape. They are just woven in with the fruit, creating a complete wine with great length and great vineyard expression as well. All the 2018s speak of place, and it’s a trick to get that to happen with Zinfandel. It has the tendency to overripen, and that puts a lid on vineyard expression. 2013 is another great example of a perfectly ripe vintage. It happens twice a decade, if we’re lucky.”

Baugher is excited about the 2018 Monte Bello, which I tasted from barrel. “For me, great vintages of Monte Bello are when all four varieties are included,” he explains. “There are 45 plots within Monte Bello. We grow Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc, in that order. They’re fermented and go to barrel separately. For blending, everything is tasted blind. We’re looking at aromatics, texture and complexity, not grape variety. We look at the grape percentages after assemblage is finished. The years that are special are the years all four grapes make it into the blend, because the conditions in the vineyard have to be perfect.” The 2018 is a blend of 68% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot, 11% Petite Verdot and 3% Cabernet Franc. While still very primary, it’s showing plenty of nuance and complexity already, and I look forward to tasting it again from bottle." (WA)

"The 2017 Zinfandel Ponzo, from a vineyard in the Russian River Valley, is bright, perfumed and light on its feet. Floral overtones, vibrant red fruit and mid-weight structure are front and center. This is another 2017 that really impresses with its pulsing acids and Pinot-like feel." (VM)

"Very attractive, fresh dark raspberries, red plums and blackcurrants in an upbeat mode. The palate is very plush and succulent with elegance, good weight and depth. The tannin definition really impresses. 98% zinfandel and 2% petite sirah. Drink or hold." (JS)

"Mostly Zinfandel (there's 2% Petite Sirah), the 2017 Zinfandel Ponzo sports a deep purple color as well as a juicy bouquet of blueberries, plums, licorice, and toasted spices. It's a rounded, medium to full-bodied, supple, seamless beauty with plenty of sweet fruit, no hard edges, and a great finish. It's another terrific Zinfandel from this team to enjoy over the coming decade." (JD)

Winery Notes:
Nose of raspberry, guava and floral notes. Bright cherry fruit on the palate with refreshing acidity, elegant tannins and finishes with an accent of pepper. JO (7/19)