2017 Graham's Vintage Porto

Year: 2017
Appellation: Oporto
Country: Portugal
Wine Advocate: 95-97
Vinous Media: 95
James Suckling: 97
Fortified Wine
Alcohol by Volume: 20.0%

Pre-Order
DUE IN: WINTER 2019

Price :
$99.95

"The 2017 Vintage Port is a blend of 35% Touriga Nacional, 47% Touriga Franca and various others, including a blend from old vines. It comes in with 113 grams of residual sugar. It was bottled about a month before this tasting, but the just-bottled sample was not really ready. This is a pre-bottling sample instead.

One of the more aromatic ports here, this is laced with cistus and eucalyptus. Lush in texture and concentrated, it was actually showing well at the time of this tasting—notwithstanding some power and pop. The more it aired out, though, the more power it showed. Even so, this remains a rather refined and suave Graham's. I'd call it subtly sexy. It does put on weight with some aeration, though, and there is that muscle underneath, so don't dive in too soon. There were 5,250 cases produced.

The 2017 declaration resulted in very low yields—about a third less than the 2016s. This also, across the Symington line, represents the first back-to-back declarations in family history. If you read my article on the 2015s ("The 2015 Vintage - Undeclared and Unashamed" at www.robertparker.com/search/articles?q=undeclared), you know that my answer to that is very simple: It's about time Port producers did such things. It shouldn't be so unusual.

As a special treat here, we have a mini-vertical of The Stone Terraces—a Port everyone seems to love these days. It's become a cult favorite. It is a field blend but very heavy on the Touriga Nacional, although not stated, from two vineyards with stone terraces at Graham's Quinta dos Malvedos." (WA)

"The 2017 Graham’s Vintage Port was picked from August 28 at Malvedos, though production is one-third less than the previous year. Here the Touriga Franca was particularly early ripening. It has an expressive nose, a mélange of red and black fruit, fig jam, dates and touches of clove, aromatics that are very seductive if perhaps just missing the intellectual capacity of the Dow’s. The palate is medium-bodied with very supple tannins, a gorgeous Graham’s with hints of espresso and cloves that tincture the multi-layered fruit that veers towards black rather than red towards the finish that fans out without a care in the world. This is perhaps one of the more flamboyant Vintage Ports that is likely to drink earlier than the Dow’s, yet that takes nothing away from what is a beautifully crafted Graham’s. Total production is 5,250 cases." (VM)

"Wow! Amazing aromas of crushed blackberry and blueberry, stems and rose petal. Entrancing. Full-bodied, very tight and powerful with ultra-fine tannins. Intense richness of crushed berries, chocolate, hazelnut and coffee. 5,250 cases. Try after 2026." (JS)

Winery Notes:
Aromas of ripe plum and gum cistus. Full and rich in the mouth with fresh blackberry and red plum notes. Despite the hallmarked Graham sweetness; the finish is long and clean.