2017 Domaine Vincent & Sophia Morey Santenay Les Gravieres 1er Cru

Year: 2017
Appellation: Cote de Beaune
Country: France
Burghound: 88
Red Wine
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"Once again very generous wood all but overwhelms the fresh raspberry and cherry jam aromas that are replete with spice and earth wisps. There is fine volume to the seductively textured flavors that possess an attractive verve though the sneaky long finish flirts with dryness that does not seem to cut the finish short." (BH)

Producer note:
Bernard Morey's sons Vincent and Thomas (both of whose whites will be reviewed in Issue 75) have each taken their respective shares of his domaine. Vincent married the daughter of a vigneron from Santenay, which explains the large holdings from that commune and together they now exploit approximately 20 ha. Vincent Morey succinctly noted that "an easy and precocious growing season presaged an early harvest and accordingly we began picking on the 4th of September for a few parcels and then attacked the rest on the 7th. The fruit was super-clean with good ripeness levels. For example, potential alcohols ranged from 12.3 to 13.5% and this was true for both colors. One aspect that is interesting is that once we racked the reds after the malos completed I noticed that they lost quite a bit of color so they are deceptively lightly hued. As to the quality, I would describe 2017 as a good vintage in red and an excellent one in white." As is usually the case, I found the quality of the Morey reds to be essentially in-line with what I found elsewhere in the Côte de Beaune. Morey said that he bottled the reds in November 2018. (BH)