2017 Domaine Henri Boillot Puligny-Montrachet

Year: 2017
Appellation: Cote de Beaune
Country: France
Wine Advocate: 90-92
Vinous Media: 89-91
White Wine
Alcohol by Volume: 13.0%
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"Derived from the superior lieux-dits of Les Houlières, La Rousselle, Les Charmes and Les Enseignères, Boillot's 2017 Puligny-Montrachet Village exhibits pretty aromas of lemons, white peach, fresh pastry, blanched almonds and honeycomb. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, satiny and elegant, with succulent acids and a saline finish.

Guillaume Boillot has now joined father Henri as this 19-hectare enterprise, where domaine-grown grapes are supplemented by purchased fruit from prime sources along the Côte d'Or, Guillaume superintending the reds while Henri occupies himself with the whites. If this division of labor is as strictly adhered to in practice as it is on paper, it certainly seems to work very well, as Boillot's 2017 portfolio is unambiguously impressive. Many of this year's red wines were fermented in barrel, a labor-intensive practice that hasn't always convinced me, but there is no arguing with these gourmand and fleshy Pinot Noirs which display uncommon depth and intensity for the vintage, even when they hail from bought fruit. The whites-all of which are fermented and matured in larger, 350-liter barrels-are simply exceptional and worthy of a place on any shopping list: they will certainly be on my own! Guillaume Boillot told me that great attention is paid to dissolved oxygen levels at racking and bottling, and that he and his father take the problem of premature oxidation-by which they have been comparatively lightly affected-very seriously, an attitude that should reassure consumers." (WA)

"Bright yellow-green color. Inviting aromas of white peach, flowers and noble herbs. Broad, round and dry, with its pure stone fruit flavors lifted by floral and spicy elements. A classy, classic Puligny villages with a dry, saline back end." (VM)