2017 Domaine Henri Boillot Meursault

Year: 2017
Appellation: Cote de Beaune
Country: France
Wine Advocate: 89-91
Vinous Media: 88-91
White Wine
Alcohol by Volume: 13.0%
Price :
$66.95

"The 2017 Meursault Village is a blend of superior lieux-dits including Narvaux, En la Barre, Limuzin and Clos du Cromin this year, and the resulting cuvée is lovely. Offering up aromas of pear, fresh peach, oatmeal and honeycomb, it's medium to full-bodied, satiny and elegant, with juicy acids and lovely purity, accessible but endowed with all the energy and cut that are Boillot's declared objectives.

Guillaume Boillot has now joined father Henri as this 19-hectare enterprise, where domaine-grown grapes are supplemented by purchased fruit from prime sources along the Côte d'Or, Guillaume superintending the reds while Henri occupies himself with the whites. If this division of labor is as strictly adhered to in practice as it is on paper, it certainly seems to work very well, as Boillot's 2017 portfolio is unambiguously impressive. Many of this year's red wines were fermented in barrel, a labor-intensive practice that hasn't always convinced me, but there is no arguing with these gourmand and fleshy Pinot Noirs which display uncommon depth and intensity for the vintage, even when they hail from bought fruit. The whites—all of which are fermented and matured in larger, 350-liter barrels—are simply exceptional and worthy of a place on any shopping list: they will certainly be on my own! Guillaume Boillot told me that great attention is paid to dissolved oxygen levels at racking and bottling, and that he and his father take the problem of premature oxidation—by which they have been comparatively lightly affected—very seriously, an attitude that should reassure consumers." (WA)

"(the crop level here was a reasonable 40 hectoliters per hectare, according to Boillot): Pale, bright yellow. Fresh yellow peach and lime blossom on the very floral nose. Peachy and penetrating on the palate, a bit tart in a positive way. Boasts very good density and salty persistence. This is a sizable cuvée for Boillot, who now does all of the vineyard work in these 3.5 hectares." (VM)