2017 Domaine Henri Boillot Meursault Les Genevrieres 1er Cru

Year: 2017
Appellation: Cote de Beaune
Country: France
Wine Advocate: 92-94
Vinous Media: 93-95
Burghound: 94
White Wine
Alcohol by Volume: 13.5%
Price :
$149.95

"The 2017 Meursault 1er Cru Genevrières is another of the many highlights in this superlative portfolio, unfurling in the glass with aromas of green apple, citrus oil, spring blossom and oatmeal. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, layered and complete, with impressive concentration and depth at the core, ripe but vibrant acids and a stony, precise finish.

Guillaume Boillot has now joined father Henri as this 19-hectare enterprise, where domaine-grown grapes are supplemented by purchased fruit from prime sources along the Côte d'Or, Guillaume superintending the reds while Henri occupies himself with the whites. If this division of labor is as strictly adhered to in practice as it is on paper, it certainly seems to work very well, as Boillot's 2017 portfolio is unambiguously impressive. Many of this year's red wines were fermented in barrel, a labor-intensive practice that hasn't always convinced me, but there is no arguing with these gourmand and fleshy Pinot Noirs which display uncommon depth and intensity for the vintage, even when they hail from bought fruit. The whites—all of which are fermented and matured in larger, 350-liter barrels—are simply exceptional and worthy of a place on any shopping list: they will certainly be on my own! Guillaume Boillot told me that great attention is paid to dissolved oxygen levels at racking and bottling, and that he and his father take the problem of premature oxidation—by which they have been comparatively lightly affected—very seriously, an attitude that should reassure consumers. " (WA)

"(Boillot described his vines in Genevrières du Haut as "two rows away from Perrières"): Pale, green-tinged yellow. Delicate nose hints at lime zest and white flowers. Wonderfully silky and energetic on the palate but also sharply delineated and tighter today than the Charmes. Discreet citrus fruit and hazelnut flavors deliver noteworthy complexity. Finishes gripping and very long, with serious salty energy. The crop level here was just 35 hectoliters per hectare, according to Boillot." (VM)

"There is a whiff of natural exoticism to the strikingly elegant, wafting and overtly floral and spiced tea aromas of mostly white orchard fruit. The cool, precise and restrained flavors possess a wonderfully refined mouth feel while displaying an abundance of minerality on the bitter lemon-inflected, balanced and sneaky long finish. This stunningly good effort is an exercise is refinement and class." (BH)