2017 Domaine Glantenay Bourgogne Pinot Noir Maison Dieu

Year: 2017
Appellation: Cote d' Or
Country: France
Red Wine
Alcohol by Volume: 13.0%
Price :



As I mentioned in the headline to this recommendation, this red Bourgogne (i.e. Burgundy) is filled with intense, most appealing Pinot Noir character. Far more then most wines just labeled Bourgogne and in fact quite comparable to a fine village wine from Volany, Pommard and Beaune. It’s quite rare to fine this Pinot Noir/Burgundy essence in a $19.95 priced wine. This Bourgogne is Domaine bottled from grapes coming (most likely) on the eastern lower part slopes and plains of the Cote de Beaunes general area of Volnay. The wine is fresh, vivid and lively and just now starting to reach its peak and should keep well for at least another 4 to 5 years.


PRICE: $19.95, **** Bargain

WHERE: Los Angeles Wine Co.

(Martin's Guide to Wine bargains)

Winery Notes:
The young Guillaume Glantenay, and his sister Sarah, have recently taken the reins of this familial 8 ha domaine that traces its roots to the 17th C. 2013 was their first vintage and much of their early days were spent upgrading the cuverie and equipment, adding cellar space and basically becoming operationally efficient. The viticultural philosophy is lutte raisonée, or the idea of treating only when a specific threat has been identified as opposed to the traditional method of treating in anticipation of a problem. The soils are plowed with no weed killers, herbicides or anti-rot treatments. The fruit is harvested manually with sorting done first in the vineyards and then again at the cuverie. The lower level fruit is 100% destemmed and if ripeness levels permit, 15 to 20% of the stems are retained for the 1ers. Once the must is in the fermenters it is cooled to between 10 and 12° C and then allowed to do as it pleases, at least so long as the temperatures do not rise above 32° C. The total cuvaison typically lasts for one month with no punch downs as Glantenay stresses that he wants the “finest tannins that I can obtain.” To this end, the new wine is given an unusually long débourbage (lees settling) of 8 to 10 days. New wood ranges from none for the regional wines, 20% for the villages and between 50 and 60% for the 1ers. The élevage lasts for around 10 months for the regional wines and between 15 and 18 for the villages and 1ers; all the reds are bottled unfined and unfiltered while the whites (to be reviewed in Issue 71), are fined but not filtered. Overall the domaine produces around 45,000 bottles annually where 90% of it is in red. Consistent with Glantenay’s desire for ultra-fine tannins, the style here is one of elegance and refinement though as the following reviews will make clear, that doesn’t mean that age-worthy reds are not produced. As to the wines, I was impressed with the quality and this is a source to watch carefully as the domaine has the terroirs as well as two very enthusiastic managers. I should note that the 1er holdings are considerably larger than the list of wines would suggest due to the frost in 2016. For example, there is normally a Chambolle Les Feusselottes, Volnay Le Ronceret, Monthélie Les Champs Fuillot and a Pommard Les Combes Dessus. (BH)

Grape variety:
Pinot Noir 100%

1,85 hectares

Average vine age:
45-80 years old

Vine parcels:
Les Grandes Terres, Les Monpoulain, Les Vèves, Les Petits Prés, Les Saussots, Les Lameroses (VOLNAY), Les Taupes Maison Dieu (POMMARD).

plantation density of 10.000 plants per hectare, average yield of 55 hectolitre per hectare.

clay-limestone soil. Chalky marl subsoil. East-south-east.

manual harvest with rigorous and thorough sorting in the vineyard and then again in the winery. 100% destemmed. Cold maceration in stainless steel vats for 7 days. Temperature control. Indigenous yeasts. Daily punching down (pigeage) and pumping over (remontage). Fermentation and maceration during 16 days before devatting.

maturing on fine lees in stainless-steel vats between 10 to 13 months. Traditional racking. Bottling without fining or filtration. Wine personality: bright crimson-red colour. A nose rich with aromas of red fruits (wild strawberry, raspberry, blueberry) and black fruits (cherry, black currant). On the palate, the wine is pleasant, full-bodied and well-balanced. Fresh and lively, Pinot Noir “Maison Dieu” is a good structured wine, with soft tannins and good harmony.

Food pairing:
poultry, turkey terrine, scrambled eggs, grilled veal liver with chanterelles, mustard sauce rabbit, mild cheese.

a fresh gourmet wine to enjoy in its youth. However, all vintages will age up to ten years.

recommended temperature 16°C.

annual production varies between 13.000 to 15.000 bottles.