2017 Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf-du-Pape Telegramme

Year: 2017
Appellation: Rhone
Country: France
Wine Spectator: 92
Wine Advocate: 90
Vinous Media: 92-93
James Suckling: 93
Jeb Dunnuck: 92
Red Wine
Alcohol by Volume: 14.5%
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"Fresh and pure, with a pretty beam of raspberry and cassis notes, flecked with savory, lavender and rooibos tea accents. A mineral edge adds length and tension on the finish. Best from 2021 through 2032. 1,970 cases imported. -JM" (WS)

"Because of coulure in the Grenache, the 2017 Chateauneuf du Pape Telegramme has higher-than-usual percentages of Mourvèdre and Syrah in the blend. It's darker fruited, with cola and plum notes, a rich, velvety and slightly coarse feel on the palate and decent length. It should still be consumed over the near term (6-7 years).

The quality and consistency of the wines here largely speak for themselves. While the focus has always been on producing high-quality wines, what that means has been refined over the years, with an increasing emphasis on terroir expression and inherent elegance. Introduced in 2011, the Piedlong bottling reflects this, coming almost entirely from that lieu-dit. Unfortunately, those Grenache vines didn't fare well under the mildew onslaught in 2018, and there's no 2018 Piedlong. Such are the perils of a terroir-based approach." (WA)

"Deep ruby-red. Intensely perfumed raspberry and cherry aromas open up quickly with air and develop suggestions of candied flowers and baking spices. Stains the palate with intense red fruit preserve flavors that are lifted and sharpened by a smoky element. At once lively and well-concentrated, finishing with solid, fruity thrust, supple tannins and persistent spiciness." (VM)

"Ripe and brambly raspberry, blueberry and cassis aromas with a strong thread of wild herbs. The shape is refined and taut through the palate. Some airy, fleshy lightness here with plush, fine and dense tannins. Finishes fresh with red fruit. Great grenache in 2017. Drink or hold." (JS)

"Bottled only a month ago, the 2017 Châteauneuf Du Pape Télégramme offers a more forward style yet has classic red and black fruits, iodine, ground pepper, and garrigue-like aromas and flavors. Fleshy, medium to full-bodied, and nicely textured, with plenty of minerality, it's a terrific introduction into the wines of this estate as well as an outstanding wine.

In the Brunier family since 1898, Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe lies on the eastern edge of Châteauneuf du Pape and covers 60 hectares of some of the finest terroir out there, the famed la Crau plateau. Looking at the winemaking, the estate has destemmed all their grapes since 1989 and the wines see all native ferments, with no temperature control, and aging all in older foudre. In addition, due to the recent completion of a new state of the art winery, the grapes are now moved only by gravity. While 2016 was an incredible vintage for this estate, they’ve produced brilliant wines in both 2017 and 2018. Lovers of elegant, classical Châteauneuf du Pape, both red and white, can’t wrong with this estate." (JD)

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