2017 Domaine Denis Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

Year: 2017
Appellation: Cote de Nuits
Country: France
Wine Advocate: 90-93
Vinous Media: 92-94
Burghound: 88-91
Red Wine
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"The 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru is also very expressive, bursting with aromas of orange rind, peony and wild berries. On the palate, the wine is medium-bodied, pure and satiny, with a layered mid-palate, good depth and concentration and an elegant, fragrant profile. Mortet opted to manually cut out the central stems for one-quarter of this cuvée, retaining the pedicels.

Arnaud Mortet's eleventh vintage at the helm of this important Gevrey-Chambertin estate and the first vinified in his capacious and state-of-the-art new winery not far from the Château de Gevrey-Chambertin. Denis Mortet made his reputation with extracted, oaky wines—though they are aging far better than his detractors would have you believe, as recent encounters with his 2004 and 2005 Cinq Terroirs demonstrated to me—whereas son Arnaud has evolved in the direction of a suppler, subtler and more elegant style, combined with a considered use of whole clusters for certain appellations and vintages. The domaine's holdings have expanded too, with new appellations including Mazis-Chambertin and Bonnes-Mares and now a separate entity bearing Arnaud's own name (see Arnaud Mortet, reviewed in this article). The wines are undeniably lovely, with the flesh and charm to drink well in their youth but the concentration and satiny structure to age. They're also impressively consistent. If Mortet can sustain the viticultural attention to detail that was his father's calling card across the entire breadth of his growing palette of appellations, then this domaine's position among the greats of the Côte de Nuits will be assured." (WA)

"The 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru is the usual combination of Petit Chapelle, Cherbaudes and Bel Air, matures in 60% new oak with 30-40% whole bunches. This is a big step up from the Village Cru: much more delineation and precision, pure blackberry and raspberry fruit, the whole bunch deftly used. The palate is very harmonious and poised, the acidity supremely well judged with a silky smooth yet structured, grainy-textured finish that is pure class. Do not overlook this gem from Arnaud Mortet. " (VM)

"A cool and overtly floral-inflected combination reflects notes of red currant raspberry and an abundance of earth nuances. Surprisingly supple medium weight flavors possess an almost lilting mouthfeel along with a subtle minerality though not the depth I'm used to seeing with this wine, or at least not yet." (BH)