2017 Chateau de Saint Cosme Gigondas

Year: 2017
Appellation: Rhone
Country: France
Wine Spectator: 93
Wine Advocate: 92+
James Suckling: 94
Jeb Dunnuck: 93
Decanter: 92
Red Wine
Alcohol by Volume: 15.5%
Price :
$46.95

"This offers a mix of dark cherry, currant and blackberry compote flavors, scored liberally with singed alder, dried sage and warm earth accents through the finish. A flash of chestnut at the very end keeps this in the old-school camp. Solid for the vintage. Best from 2022 through 2035. -J.M." (WS)

"Loaded with notes of black olives and black cherries, the full-bodied 2017 Gigondas is rich and velvety in the mouth. I'm not sure it's quite as good as the 2018, but it's certainly no slouch, with a long, silky finish that picks up a hint of cocoa.

When I stopped in to visit in mid-June, proprietor Louis Barruol had a lot to smile about. Efforts to add white Gigondas to the appellation seem to be moving ahead, his Finger Lakes project (Forge Cellars) is ticking along and the last four vintages in the Southern Rhône have been good for quality, even if quantities aren't always what they could be. His activities in the Northern Rhône are going well too (more about those in the Northern Rhône report). "I'm really happy with '18," he said. "I've become not a great believer in crazy low crops—it's not that natural." In 2018, his average yields were a reasonable 32 hectoliters per hectare. "It's not going to be as good as '16, but it's very good."" (WA)

"Wow. This has such attractive dark plums and berries with chocolate and cocoa, as well as ripe red and dark cherries. The complexity and depth is striking here. The palate carries so much flavor and so much detail. So lush. Rich dark fruit, cocoa and red-cherry pip to close. Drink over the next decade or more. This has plenty in the tank." (JS)

"Moving back south, the 2017 Gigondas is another terrific vintage for this cuvée, and it’s a quintessential expression of Saint Cosme. Ground herbs, graphite, gunpowder, pepper, black raspberries, and cassis all emerge from this full-bodied, ripe, polished Gigondas. With solid concentration, building yet ripe tannins, and a great finish, you’ll be thrilled to have a case in the cellar." (JD)

"Whole-cluster fruit from limestone, marl and Miocene sand soils is fermented in concrete with indigenous yeasts. It's then aged 70% in barrel, 20% new, with the remaining 30% in concrete. It has a very oaky aromatic profile at this early stage, but it's joined by a lovely herbal aspect from the stems. Medium to full-bodied, the fruit has a vibrant freshness and the acidity is pretty marked, while the tannins are massy but ripe and harmonious. Long finish." (Decanter)

Winery Notes:
70% Grenache - 14% Syrah – 15% Mourvèdre - 1% Cinsault. Whole clusters.

Aged for twelve months: 20% in new casks - 50% in casks used for 1 to 4 wines - 30% in concrete tanks. Limestone marl and Miocene sand. Being a winegrower implies searching for, and perfecting, ways of maximising sense of place in one’s wines over an entire lifetime. Each location creates a kind of ‘technical pathway’. Each decision by a winegrower is like a crossroads where he or she can take the right, or the wrong, direction. There are no shortcuts and, generally speaking, when the wrong decision is made, it is hard to make amends. So, finding the right path for each location involves searching for a site’s ‘solution’, like a puzzle you attempt to solve. The ‘solution’ is quite simply allowing the ‘terroir’ to express itself freely. It is within this scheme of things, and only this one, that a wine can find its truth, its vibrancy, its consistency, and this intimate logic that is expressed throughout its life. Because wine is not a snapshot, but rather a feature film. So, when it comes to assessing a wine, it is better to have seen the whole film, and not just a few shots from the first five minutes.

Strawberry, violet, liquorice, pepper.

Bottled without filtration