2016 Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits-St.-Georges les Chaignots 1er Cru

Year: 2016
Appellation: Cote de Nuits
Country: France
Wine Advocate: 93+
Vinous Media: 89-92
Burghound: 90-92
Red Wine
Alcohol by Volume: 13.5%
Price :
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"Since fully 1.5 hectares of vines produced a mere four barrels of wine, it's no surprise that the 2016 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Chaignots is preternaturally concentrated, and tasted blind I mistook it for the domaine's Cailles. Unfurling in the glass with notes of rose petals, violets, orange rind and ripe cherries, the wine is medium to full-bodied, deep and strikingly intense, structured around rich, velvety tannins that caress the palate, and concluding with a long, beautifully lively finish. Readers who can find a few bottles shouldn't hesitate.

The 2017 vintage is a terrific success for Domaine Robert Chevillon, one of my favorite addresses in all of Burgundy. This is a striking collection of wines that capture the suppleness and charm so typical of the vintage but which display uncommon depth and intensity. As ever, the style is elegantly gourmand, the wines displaying the generous fruit and perfectly ripe tannins that seem to be taken for granted chez Chevillon. Old vines, ploughed vineyards, moderate yields and long fermentations with entirely destemmed grapes are the order of the day at this address, with the Nuits Vieilles Vignes seeing some 20% new oak, and 30% for the premiers crus: Tonnellerie Sirugue is the dominant supplier of barrels. While the wines of Nuits aren't coveted with the same ardor as those of Vosne, Chambolle or Gevrey, this singularly consistent domaine produces wines fit to stand alongside those more glamorous villages' best, and readers who have not yet experienced the Chevillon magic shouldn't hesitate to seek them out." (WA)

"(just 9 barrels produced from 1.5 hectares; like the following wines, this had not been racked since July): Bright, dark red. Inviting scents of black raspberry and currant. Boasts lovely richness, breadth and sweetness, with its flavors tending toward black fruits owing to the concentration from tiny yields. Dense, structured and long, finishing with a ripe suggestion of chocolate." (VM)

"A more deeply pitched nose offers up notes of plum, dark raspberry and more evident earth and spice influences. The sleek and mineral-inflected flavors possess a lovely underlying tension while delivering fine depth and persistence on the firm, moderately austere and balanced finale." (BH)

Winery Notes:
The stunning collection of premier cru and old-vine vineyards held by the two Chevillon brothers would make any Pinot Noir grower jealous. Their innate ability to carefully tend the vines and master the difficult Burgundian conditions provides ripe, healthy clusters of grapes year after year. Taste through the barrels of Chevillon post-harvest and it doesn't matter what happened the year before, almost as if by miracle, the wines show class and character and each terroir has its distinct idiosyncrasies. It is le vrai Pinot chez Chevillon.

Brothers Bertrand and Denis Chevillon are the fifth generation managers of this property in Nuits- Saint-Georges, which means they work the vines and make the wines. Their father Robert, for whom the domaine is named, is still active as well. Both brothers bring passion, experience, a tireless work ethic, and intensity to their work at the domaine. Tasting through their palate of Nuits- Saint-Georges is a venerable tour of the appellation. Their Passetoutgrain, a blend of Pinot and Gamay, is a worthy introduction and their rare (two barrels made) Nuits-Saint-Georges Blanc made from the “Pinot Gouges” is an exotic treasure that ages just as long as the domaine’s fabled reds. And their Bourgogne Aligoté, Bourgogne Chardonnay and Bourgogne Rouge are grown and vinified with the same care as their premier crus. It shows.

The track record of the Chevillon wines in the cellar is one of the most remarkable aspects of this storied domaine. We regularly have the good fortune to taste back through the past three decades of vintages of all the various premier crus and the wines always more than convincing—they are amongst Burgundy’s very best. In fact, I have often been more disappointed with grand cru bottlings than I am with the top-tier Chevillon premier crus. Indeed, Nuits-Saint-Georges does not officially have any grand cru vineyards, but we are convinced that Cailles, Vaucrains and Les Saint-Georges are firmly grand cru quality. This decision is currently in the hands of the appellation authorities but it is almost better if the status quo doesn’t change–that way we are assured to get grand cru quality at a premier cru price!