2015 Muller-Catoir Riesling Trocken Haardt

Year: 2015
Appellation: Pfalz
Country: Germany
Wine Spectator: 90
Wine Advocate: 92
Vinous Media: 89
White Wine
Alcohol by Volume: 12.5%
Price :

"A well-rounded, light style, with a stylish flavor profile of kumquat and apricot, showing floral notes in the background. Bracing acidity lends focus and drives this to a lingering finish. Drink now through 2025. 50 cases imported.–BS " (WS)

"The 2015 Pfalz Riesling Trocken Haardt has a deep and intense Riesling flavors that reflects the deeper soils of the vineyards in the Haardt slopes. The nose is discreet in its white stone fruit aromas, but deep, intense, really clear and fresh. On the palate, this is a very straight, firm and pure Riesling with a lot of grip and tension. However, it needs more time to develop its charm. The mineral length and compact structure is already impressive though.

With the 2015 vintage, Müller-Catoir has bottled another excellent collection. The dry wines are probably the best ever produced here and if you still have no relation with Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc), Müller-Catoir's oak and malolactic-free bottlings could be a welcome chance to change any pre-judgements. The sweet wines are already famous and the 2015s are excellent arguments for this fame.

2015 was a warm and dry year, but the autumn was cool. "It was important to harvest at the right time," says Franzen, who admits that "we didn't run less that in 2014, although the grapes were all healthy in 2015. We just had to avoid too high an alcohol level and broadness." Harvest at Müller-Catoir started on September 7 and was finished in the first week of October for the dry wines. That's a week to ten days earlier than in the last years. Due to the deep soils, with their good water storage capacity, Müller-Catoir harvested the top wines earlier than the basic Rieslings. "Being finished with Riesling at the beginning of October – that never did happen before. Also, we had never harvested the top sites earlier than the estate wines before," says Franzen. So in 2015, they had to find new ways to achieve top qualities.

"2015 is a vintage of the vineyard," Franzen finds. Deep soils and old vines had clear advantages during the dry and warm summer. Also, the organic farming shows more and more results. "The vines, the whole system is more in balance, since we are organic. The single vineyard wines are clearly distinctive. We can also see that in 2015, it was the prestigious grands cru sites that shined." Riesling was picked with higher acidity than expected, whereas Rieslaner's acidity was lower than in 2007 and similar to the levels in 2005, another warm vintage.

Last but not least, 2015 brought good quantities, again. "There was virtually no botrytis and we picked the grapes for our Auslesen in a bilious green color," stresses Franzen, who finds his 2015s in general "warm and dense, yet vivacious and shining from inside."" (WA)

"Infectiously juicy and transparent to nuances that eluded its generic counterpart, this bottling features apple and fresh lime with a hint of mango, pungently resinous green herbal and smoked meat notes serving for invigoration and savor on a polished palate, en route to a slightly austere and stone-lined but at the same time animating and refreshing finish." (VM)