2015 Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits-St.-Georges les Roncieres 1er Cru

Year: 2015
Appellation: Cote de Nuits
Country: France
Wine Advocate: 90-92
Vinous Media: 89-92
Burghound: 91-93
Red Wine
Alcohol by Volume: 13.5%
Price :

"The 2015 Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru Les Roncières has a slightly reserved bouquet like the Bousselots, very pure with raspberry and wild strawberry scents, a little more floral perhaps but needing coaxing from the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, good depth with veins of dark chocolate infusing the red fruit towards the persistent finish. Enjoy this over the next 10-15 years.

You might wonder what Bertrand Chevillon has in common with the late Mme. Gasqueton, the erstwhile matriarch at Château Calon-Ségur. Well, both insist on punctuality and you receive a polite slap on the wrist should you arrive tardy. I can understand that since a respected grower like Chevillon is inundated with visits from importers and journalists at this time of the year, although from my point of view, I prefer to be a bit late rather than rush through a tasting (I frequently hear complaints from growers that to their displeasure, so-and-so sped through the tasting “à toute vitesse”). Anyway, Bertrand and brother Denis’ wines deserve time and consideration because they are some of the finest in Nuits Saint-Georges: more opulent and fruit-driven compared to Gouges, their richness always kept in check (whereas in the past they could occasionally be a bit overblown). “We picked from 3 to 10 September and then it rained,” Bertrand explained as he flitted from barrel to barrel. “In the end the crop was 50% down. The malolactic did not finish until May, a little later than usual.” With such an enviable array of premier crus at his disposal, it is no wonder that this address produces some of the appellations most exceptional wines, and 2015 continued a trend whereby Chevillon has imparted more precision and focus into his wines. They embrace the warmth of the 2015 vintage, so that they are rounded in texture, not plump but full of fruit, clean and pure, but still distinguishing one vineyard to the other. Many of these come highly recommended and within the scheme of Burgundy, in my opinion they represent great value." (WA)

"Healthy dark red. Black raspberry aroma complicated by soil tones of truffle and underbrush. Then juicy and rather tight, showing good clarity and reserve to its medicinal dark cherry and dark chocolate flavors. Densely packed and smoothly tannic. Doesn't quite come alive today but this wine nicely combines power and a sophisticated texture. " (VM)

"The expressive nose is compositionally quite similar to that of the Bousselots except that it's just a bit more deeply pitched. The clean, cool and sleek flavors display excellent delineation along with plenty of minerality, all wrapped in a wonderfully persistent and impeccably well-balanced if notably firm finale. This beauty is indisputably built-to-age and is going to need it." (BH)

Winery Notes:
The stunning collection of premier cru and old-vine vineyards held by the two Chevillon brothers would make any Pinot Noir grower jealous. Their innate ability to carefully tend the vines and master the difficult Burgundian conditions provides ripe, healthy clusters of grapes year after year. Taste through the barrels of Chevillon post-harvest and it doesn't matter what happened the year before, almost as if by miracle, the wines show class and character and each terroir has its distinct idiosyncrasies. It is le vrai Pinot chez Chevillon.

Brothers Bertrand and Denis Chevillon are the fifth generation managers of this property in Nuits- Saint-Georges, which means they work the vines and make the wines. Their father Robert, for whom the domaine is named, is still active as well. Both brothers bring passion, experience, a tireless work ethic, and intensity to their work at the domaine. Tasting through their palate of Nuits- Saint-Georges is a venerable tour of the appellation. Their Passetoutgrain, a blend of Pinot and Gamay, is a worthy introduction and their rare (two barrels made) Nuits-Saint-Georges Blanc made from the “Pinot Gouges” is an exotic treasure that ages just as long as the domaine’s fabled reds. And their Bourgogne Aligoté, Bourgogne Chardonnay and Bourgogne Rouge are grown and vinified with the same care as their premier crus. It shows.

The track record of the Chevillon wines in the cellar is one of the most remarkable aspects of this storied domaine. We regularly have the good fortune to taste back through the past three decades of vintages of all the various premier crus and the wines always more than convincing—they are amongst Burgundy’s very best. In fact, I have often been more disappointed with grand cru bottlings than I am with the top-tier Chevillon premier crus. Indeed, Nuits-Saint-Georges does not officially have any grand cru vineyards, but we are convinced that Cailles, Vaucrains and Les Saint-Georges are firmly grand cru quality. This decision is currently in the hands of the appellation authorities but it is almost better if the status quo doesn’t change–that way we are assured to get grand cru quality at a premier cru price!