2015 Domaine Michel Gros Vosne-Romanee Aux Bruless 1er Cru

Year: 2015
Appellation: Cote de Nuits
Country: France
Wine Advocate: 88-90
Burghound: 91-93
Red Wine
Alcohol by Volume: 13.0%
Price :
$129.95

"The 2015 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Brûlées, which is aged in 60% new oak, has a well-defined bouquet, although at the moment it is dominated by that level of new oak. The palate is again balanced and focused, and demonstrates good substance and grip. The new oak does create a carapace that makes it difficult to gauge the fruit profile or the terroir underneath. Hopefully that will be absorbed with a few years in bottle.

"The dryness was the most important thing - very small rainfall during the winter," Michel Gros told me when I visited his winery in Vosne-Romanée. "Flowering passed normally but the dryness created a small harvest. July was warm, August and September 1°C higher than normal with a lot of sunshine hours. The harvest began on 5 September and we picked within 4 days, before tackling the Hautes Côtes de Nuits on 12 September where we harvested in between the rains showers around that time. The berries were ripe but small. It is a vintage not unlike 2005 and 2010, but the tannins are suppler than in 2005. I fermented at a temperature a little lower than usual, the cuvaison 12-14 days with a prefermentation cold-maceration. Everything was de-stemmed as usual and the wines will spend around 18 months in barrel, though because of the small harvest the percent of new oak is little higher, 40-45% for the village, 60-65% for the premier crus." Michel has a particular modus operandi that sometimes I think works well and other times leaves me feeling a bit perplexed. There were several occasions here where I felt that the winemaking approach was speaking louder than the growing season and/or terroir expression. However, there are some lovely wines, especially the Nuits Saint-Georges les Chaliots that punches above its weight for a premier cru, and the Nuits Saint-Georges 1er Cru itself." (WA)

"Generous but not dominant wood tussles somewhat with the spiced plum liqueur, Asian-style tea and violet-scented nose. There is a wonderfully seductive mouth feel to the rich, velvety and sappy medium weight plus flavors that brim with dry extract and minerality on the lingering finale where the firm tannic spine arrives in a rush. In contrast to the Nuits 1er, this moderately muscular effort is less likely to make for a good early drinker." (BH)

Winery Notes:
It was in 1830 that the GROS family set up in Vosne-Romanée. Today, Michel GROS, sixth generation of this dynasty of winemakers, continues and develops the work undertaken by his ancestors, as do his sister (Domaine AF Gros), his brother (Domaine Gros Frère et Soeur) and his cousin (Domaine Anne Gros). Passionate but also very rigorous, Michel GROS brings constant care to the development of his wines, by mastering all the stages of production, from vine through to bottling. Modest and unassuming, he expresses himself through his wines: generous, fine, elegant, of reliable and even quality.