2015 Domaine Denis Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin Mes Cinq Terroirs

Year: 2015
Appellation: Cote de Nuits
Country: France
Wine Advocate: 92-94
Vinous Media: 89-92
Burghound: 89-92
Red Wine
Alcohol by Volume: 13.0%
Price :
$79.95

"The 2015 Gevrey-Chambertin Mes Cinq Terroir comes from five parcels from around the appellation and it includes 30% whole bunch and 30% new oak. It has a vibrant bouquet, a melange of blue and black fruit that lends it a Fixin-like personality. The palate is medium-bodied with tensile tannin that are filigree. This has a silky texture, perfectly judged acidity and disarming purity on the finish. This is premier cru quality—period.

It is not a question of whether Arnaud Mortet's 2015 Burgundies kicked arse...but how much. I was totally blown away by these wines that represent the best ever from the domaine. It is not so much a case of a stellar 100-pointers. Perhaps I was anticipating a score in that rarefied air as I approached the grand crus, and they were not quite there. Rather, it is the consistency amongst the village and premier crus that punched well above their wait, forcing me to give scores that might raise a few eyebrows amongst those in the misguided belief that all Burgundy wines adhere to the hierarchy: generic < village < premier < grand cru. These were thrilling wines that sent tingles of pleasure down my spine.

"I began the harvest early on 3 September because I thought the maturity was at the top level in order to keep the freshness," Arnaud told me. "The potential alcohol was around 13.2° natural, which is not too much, with a nice level of acidity. The tannins were ripe and the skins black. The 2015 was easier than 2014. I used whole bunches in 2015 as we had a lot of small grapes that are difficult to de-stem, so I removed the grapes at the table and used whole bunches, which I first used in 2009. For example, Fixin is 100% whole bunch and many other 30-60% from premier and grand cru." There is a sense of class suffused into many of Mortet's wines that are rarely matched not only within Gevrey-Chambertin, but within the Côte de Nuits. Having tasted at this address for many years, I cannot recall ever finding such fineness of tannins, purity of fruit, intensity of aromas and flavors whilst conveying the sense of terroir. Such was my enthusiasm for these wines, yes, I must confess that I was hoping a grand cru to totally blow my mind and they came a whisker from doing so. It's just a matter of time before that happens. Bravo Arnaud." (WA)

"(30% vendange entier; 30% new oak; a blend of five _lieux-dits from the Brochon side of Gevrey-Chambertin, with the vines averaging 60 to 70 years of age): Bright red with ruby highlights. Classic, inviting, ripe Gevrey aromas of black raspberry, black cherry, chocolate and minerals. Fine-grained, sappy and savory, with lovely mineral lift to its dark berry flavors. Here the substantial tannins are more refined than those of the Marsannay, giving this lovely village wine a distinctly suave character." (VM)

"This is also quite restrained and cool with a similar aromatic profile. There is however more size, weight and power to the solidly concentrated and well-detailed medium-bodied flavors that possess excellent complexity and length for a villages level Gevrey. This is outstanding and well worth your attention." (BH)