2015 Domaine Denis Mortet Bourgogne Rouge Cuvee de Noble Souche

Year: 2015
Appellation: Cote de Nuits
Country: France
Wine Advocate: 87-89
Vinous Media: 86-88
Burghound: 86-89
Red Wine
Alcohol by Volume: 12.5%
Price :
$39.95

"The 2015 Bourgogne Pinot Noir was completely de-stemmed and includes 20% new oak, the fruit picked on 11 September since the vineyard is a little colder than others. It has a lovely, almost peachy bouquet that is almost like a mixture of red and white wine characteristics - and I mean that in a positive way. The palate is very pure with crisp acidity, supremely well focused with a nimble, tensile finish with crisp red cherries and blueberry fruit. Superb.

It is not a question of whether Arnaud Mortet's 2015 Burgundies kicked arse...but how much. I was totally blown away by these wines that represent the best ever from the domaine. It is not so much a case of a stellar 100-pointers. Perhaps I was anticipating a score in that rarefied air as I approached the grand crus, and they were not quite there. Rather, it is the consistency amongst the village and premier crus that punched well above their wait, forcing me to give scores that might raise a few eyebrows amongst those in the misguided belief that all Burgundy wines adhere to the hierarchy: generic < village < premier < grand cru. These were thrilling wines that sent tingles of pleasure down my spine.

"I began the harvest early on 3 September because I thought the maturity was at the top level in order to keep the freshness," Arnaud told me. "The potential alcohol was around 13.2° natural, which is not too much, with a nice level of acidity. The tannins were ripe and the skins black. The 2015 was easier than 2014. I used whole bunches in 2015 as we had a lot of small grapes that are difficult to de-stem, so I removed the grapes at the table and used whole bunches, which I first used in 2009. For example, Fixin is 100% whole bunch and many other 30-60% from premier and grand cru." There is a sense of class suffused into many of Mortet's wines that are rarely matched not only within Gevrey-Chambertin, but within the Côte de Nuits. Having tasted at this address for many years, I cannot recall ever finding such fineness of tannins, purity of fruit, intensity of aromas and flavors whilst conveying the sense of terroir. Such was my enthusiasm for these wines, yes, I must confess that I was hoping a grand cru to totally blow my mind and they came a whisker from doing so. It's just a matter of time before that happens. Bravo Arnaud." (WA)

"(from vines at an altitude of 400 meters in the village of Daix, just northwest of Dijon; 20% new oak): Good medium red. Lively aromas of black cherry and licorice. Not fat or hugely ripe but a nicely racy Bourgogne Rouge with good cut to its dark fruit, licorice and chocolate flavors. Mortet has 24 barrels of this juice." (VM)

"A discreet but not invisible touch of wood frames super-fresh and cool aromas of various dark berries and earth where the latter can also be found on the sleek, rich and voluminous flavors that deliver fine depth and length on the balanced finish. This juicy and succulent effort is really quite good and worth considering." (BH)