2010 Strub Niersteiner Bruckchen Riesling Kabinett

Year: 2010
Appellation: Rheinhessen
Country: Germany
Wine Spectator: 87
Wine Advocate: 90
White Wine
Price :
$15.95
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"Ripe, with glazed apricot and ripe peach flavors that feature hints of smoke and plenty of spice. Broad finish. Drink now through 2018. 1,000 cases made." (WS)

"Speaking as I was (see under this year’s “Soil to Soul” coverage) of potentially long-lived residually sweet Stub wines, his 2010 Niersteiner Bruckchen Riesling Kabinett reveals a nearly identical gross chemical analysis to the “Soil to Soul” blend, though with marginally even higher acidity. Grapefruit, orange, quince, Persian melon, and white peach in succulent, yet almost electrically-charged profusion are palpably underlain with chalk that (at least metaphorically) corresponds to the make-up of this under-appreciated site just south of Nierstein the village. You’d be hard-pressed to find a better example of high-wire balancing or vivacious generosity of fruit even on the Mosel, and I fully expect that this outstanding value will delight for a dozen or more years.

Walter Strub suffered a more than 50% crop loss vis-a-vis recent norms in 2010, and felt compelled, albeit quite sparingly, to perform the first de-acidifications of his long career. (Soon after taking the reins from his father, the at-the-time 30-something refusenik made his point by rendering a delicious group of Rieslings from vintage 1987.) But the modest number of wines he bottled this year include some his most intriguing and successful. Sebastian Strub – who spent this year working at Weingut Donnhoff and continuing his course of study at Geisenheim – collaborated with his father on 2010 vintage decision-making." (WA)

Winery Notes:
CORE-LIST WINE. And a chewy bite of Riesling. Quince and cox-orange pippins and with a vanilla-bean spiciness in the middle; like a corn bisque with apple chips and a dusting of Chinese 5-spice.