2010 Domaine William Fevre Chablis Les Preuses Grand Cru

Year: 2010
Appellation: Chablis
Country: France
Wine Advocate: 97
Vinous Media: 96+
Burghound: 94-96
View from the Cellar, John Gilman: 97+
White Wine
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"The 2010 Chablis Les Preuses combines the minerality of Valmur and the fruit of Bouguerots in a style that is immensely appealing. The wine’s balance is utterly impeccable throughout. This is one of those effortless, gracious wines that is easy to underestimate because the elements are so seamlessly woven together that nothing in particular stands out. I am blown away by the sheer balance, purity and harmony of what is in the glass. This is a great showing from Fevre and Didier Seguir. Anticipated maturity: 2013+.

Fevre was among the first producers to bring in their 2011s. The 2011 harvest started on August 31st, the earliest on record with the exception of 2003. Winemaker Didier Seguir was quick to add that 2011 was a precocious year, but not as shockingly hot as 2003. Early April and May were very hot, which led to an early flowering, but then temperatures moderated in June. Hail at the end of June and early July affected Fourchaume, Vaulorent, Preuses, Vaudesir and Clos, all on the right bank, where production was down 5-30%, which placed yields at 40-50 hectoliters per hectare as opposed to the 50-60 that were obtained on the left bank, where hail was not an issue. Seguir lightly chaptalized some of the wines, and noted that the acidities came in around 4-4.5%, which he describes as moderate (along the lines of 2000 and 2002) and lower than 2008 and 2010. When the Fevre wines are young, they appear to be very tight and in need of cellaring. At the same time, it is hard for me to suggest holding these wines for more than a few years, as I have personally had a lot of issues with premature oxidation with Fevre wines from my own cellar. To be fair, since 2007 all of the wines have been sealed with the Diamant corks, which are made from a combination of natural and synthetic materials designed to allow for the gradual exchange of oxygen that is so important for wines to age gracefully with more reliability than standard cork. The 2011 Petit Chablis was bottled at the end of April 2012, followed by the Champs Royaux in May and the Chablis (domaine) in early June. All of the other 2011s were still aging on their lees in tank. As has been the custom here for the last few years, Seguir does a fairly short elevage in largely neutral oak that lasts 4-6 months, after which the wines age in tank. Note: the overwhelming majority of the Fevre wines are Domaine Fevre, but there are a few wines in this lineup that are made from purchased fruit. Those wines are identified as (maison) in the wine name. There are two bottlings that are made in both a domaine and maison version, the straight Chablis (I only tasted the domaine bottling) and the Montmains (I tasted both). The 2010 premier crus were bottled after the 2011 vintage, while the grand crus were bottled last December." (WA)

"($110) Bright, pale lemon-yellow color. Knockout nose melds pineapple, white peach, lemon oil, wild herbs, flowers and cut hay, plus a whiff of menthol. Wonderfully silky, dense and pure, with subtle sweetness cut by brilliant acidity. Utterly electric Chablis: saline, tactile and palate-saturating from start to resounding finish. I'd forget this one in the cellar: it may eventually merit an even higher rating. In 2010 and 2011, this wine challenges Vincent Dauvissat's supernal Preuses." (IWC)

"A pure, cool, airy and exceptionally stylish nose of green fruit, citrus zest, iodine and shellfish slides gracefully into rich, round and brilliantly well-delineated medium-bodied flavors that possess a silky mouth feel and an explosively long and bone dry finish. This impeccably poised and understated effort is a classic Les Preuses with its Zen-like harmony and sheer class." (BH)

"By this point in the lineup, the quality level of these grand crus was starting to really become a bit overwhelming to the senses, but the stunning quality of the 2010 Les Preuses had no difficulty making an impression! This too had been bottled the week before. The utterly classic and pure bouquet offers up a haunting nose of grapefruit, green apple, kaleidoscopically complex soil stones redolent of chalky, oyster shell and stony minerality, white flowers and a pungent topnote of beeswax. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and very, very racy, with great purity and precision on the attack, stunning mid-palate depth, great focus and balance and an endless and rapier-like finish. 2020-2060+. 97+ points" (John Gilman)

Winery Notes:
2,55 ha of 11.4 ha. Structured to be kept in the cellar thanks to a dense, compact, clay-rich soil resting on a limestone bed. Characterised by flowery notes and a great mineral quality.

Characteristics of the appellation:
Floral nose, with fruity aromas enhanced by intense mineral notes and developing lightly smoky touches. Very round on the palate.

Food-wine matches:
Fish, shellfish and other seafood, grilled or in a cream sauce. Poultry and white meat, grilled or in a cream sauce.

Serving temperature:

Grape variety:
100% Chardonnay.

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