2010 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogue Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru

Year: 2010
Appellation: Cote de Nuits
Country: France
Wine Advocate: 93-95
Vinous Media: 93
Burghound: 92-95
Red Wine
Alcohol by Volume: 13.0%
Price :
$499.95
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"The 2010 Bonnes-Mares is a huge, spherical wine that fills out in every dimension. It truly is captivating from the very first taste. Black cherries, plums, smoke, graphite, licorice, menthol and tar burst from the glass as the wine shows off its statuesque, towering personality. The 2010 boasts stunning richness allied to powerful tannins in a full-bodied style that is simply dazzling. This is a dramatic, thrilling wine from de Vogue, but it will test readers’ patience. Those who can find the Bonnes-Mares should forget about it for at least 15 years. Anticipated maturity: 2025-2045.

Long-time oenologist Francois Millet was away during my visit to Burgundy, so I can’t relay his always visually evocative thoughts on recent vintages. At the end of the day, though, these wines need no words; they speak for themselves, and then some. Commercial director Jean-Luc Pepin was kind enough to show me all of the 2010s and 2009s (from bottle), including the seldom seen Bourgogne Blanc. I will report on the 2009s in the April issue." (WA)

"Purple-tinged red-ruby. Slightly reduced but nonetheless highly complex aromas of blackberry, licorice, menthol, violet and wild herbs, with a distinctly rocky quality adding another dimension. The palate offers a compelling combination of richness and verve, with sharp definition and luminosity to the flavors of cassis, crushed blackberry and minerals. The vibrant finish features firm, noble tannins and lovely rising perfume. With aeration, this only gained in complexity, revealing red cherry and a soil-driven saline nuance." (IWC)

"Not unexpectedly here the brooding and somber nose is completely different with a much greater emphasis on earth and smoked tea nuances on the darker hued fruit that includes cassis and black raspberry. The rich, powerful and impressively concentrated large-scaled flavors exhibit a sleek muscularity on the pure, balanced and gorgeously long finish. Like most of these 2010s, there is a serenity present here that allows the wines to unfold elegantly and coherently. This is forceful wine yet it delivers that power with no sense of weight or heaviness." (BH)