2010 Christian Moreau Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru

Year: 2010
Appellation: Chablis
Country: France
Wine Advocate: 94
Vinous Media: 93
Burghound: 92-94
White Wine
Alcohol by Volume: 13.0%
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"A gorgeous, spiced bouquet announces the 2010 Chablis Les Clos. I especially like the way the Clos has maintained fabulous freshness and nuance, while capturing the depth of the year. Floral notes add lift and definition to this beautifully articulated, vibrant Clos from Fabien and Guy Moreau. Saline notes give the wine its sense of urgency and focus. The 2010 is at once voluptuous yet weightless, in the way the best wines from Clos often are. This is a great showing. Anticipated maturity: 2012+.

There are a handful of famous producers in Chablis, and a larger number of emerging estates, but the few wineries are as overlooked as Christian Moreau. This is one of the few domaines where I preferred the 2011s to the 2010s. The 2011s have notable freshness and energy, while the 2010s are at times a bit on the heavy side. Perhaps it is a question of harvest dates or the conversion to biodynamic farming that was in its second year in 2011, or a combination of other factors, but it is pretty clear the 2011s have the upper hand when tasted next to the 2010s. The 2011 harvest started on September 2, a good two weeks earlier than 2010. Some of the wines were chaptalized by half a percent. Total acidities were in the 4.5-5% range, which Moreau reports as being similar to 2010. The 2011 Chablis was bottled the first week of June. I tasted the rest of the 2011s from tank or barrel. The 2010s were harvested beginning on September 16th. These are decidedly rich, large-scaled wines endowed with considerable concentration. Yields were down 30-50% because of hail and poor flowering, and that has marked the wines to a significant degree. Overall, I have a slight preference for the 2011s, which are less bombastic than the 2010s." (WA)

"Bright yellow. Complex, soil-driven aromas of flinty minerality, sea breeze and menthol, along with a petrolly nuance. Dense, suave and very dry, with penetrating cut to the cool flavors of minerals, nectarine and flowers. This classic Clos is most impressive today on the back end and will reward extended cellaring." (IWC)

"A highly complex and perfumed nose speaks of floral, citrus, white peach and shell fish hints that introduce rich, refined and dazzlingly pure flavors that possess a silky mouth feel and superb detail on the explosive, long and impeccably well-balanced finish." (BH)

Winery Notes:
Domaine Christian Moreau Pere et Fils owns a total of 7.5 acres of this most famous of the Grand Crus of Chablis, more than any other producer in the region. Their primary parcel sits on the high portion of the hillside with a direct southeast exposure. With the steep grade, drainage of the kimmeridgien soils is quick leading to low yields of the densely planted vines.

A sizable 40% of the final blend is aged in oak cask, although only a small percentage is new barrels. The oak contact is unobtrusive and is a testament to the sheer power of this Grand Cru.

The 2010 Les Clos packs all of the flavor and complexity that you would expect from Moreau's flagship Grand Cru in such a spectacular vintage as 2010. The wine is jam-packed with ripe fruit from beginning to end, which combines with driving mineral and racing acidity.