2010 Christian Moreau Chablis Les Clos Clos des Hospices Grand Cru

Year: 2010
Appellation: Chablis
Country: France
Wine Advocate: 95
Vinous Media: 93
Burghound: 93-95
White Wine
Alcohol by Volume: 13.0%
Price :
$84.95
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"The 2010 Chablis Les Clos Clos des Hospices adds some of the textural richness found in the Valmur with the delicacy and salinity of Les Clos. Smoke, graphite, crushed rocks and licorice are some of the many notes that add complexity on the textured, caressing finish. This is another standout from Moreau. The style is a bit huge and the rich fruit will surprise those looking for subtlety, but it all works. Anticipated maturity: 2012.

There are a handful of famous producers in Chablis, and a larger number of emerging estates, but the few wineries are as overlooked as Christian Moreau. This is one of the few domaines where I preferred the 2011s to the 2010s. The 2011s have notable freshness and energy, while the 2010s are at times a bit on the heavy side. Perhaps it is a question of harvest dates or the conversion to biodynamic farming that was in its second year in 2011, or a combination of other factors, but it is pretty clear the 2011s have the upper hand when tasted next to the 2010s. The 2011 harvest started on September 2, a good two weeks earlier than 2010. Some of the wines were chaptalized by half a percent. Total acidities were in the 4.5-5% range, which Moreau reports as being similar to 2010. The 2011 Chablis was bottled the first week of June. I tasted the rest of the 2011s from tank or barrel. The 2010s were harvested beginning on September 16th. These are decidedly rich, large-scaled wines endowed with considerable concentration. Yields were down 30-50% because of hail and poor flowering, and that has marked the wines to a significant degree. Overall, I have a slight preference for the 2011s, which are less bombastic than the 2010s." (WA)

"Pale, bright yellow. Very closed nose hints at underripe pineapple and vanillin oak. Steely and penetrating but also sweeter and fruitier than the classic Clos bottling, with terrific depth of peach and apricot flavor. (The Moreaus' Clos des Hospices holding is situated low on the hill, where the soil is deeper and richer in clay than higher up.) Quite powerful on the very long finish, but much easier to taste today than the classic Clos." (IWC)

"This is reduced to the point of being unreadable. Happily the reduction does not extend to the spicy, intense and overtly stony broad-shouldered flavors that coat the palate with dry extract on the hugely long finish. While the Clos des Hospices is not necessarily always superior to the regular cuvée, in 2010 there is clearly more underlying material." (BH)

Winery Notes:
Terroir:
The Domaine Christian Moreau Pere et Fils Grand Cru Les Clos 'Clos de Hospice' is produced from the domaine's tiny one acre monopole at the foot of the Les Clos vineyard. The vineyard was acquired by the Moreau family in 1904 is has a slightly different terroir to rest of the vineyard, with slightly heavier marl soils, old and densly planted vines.

Vinification :
The grapes are pruned heavily during the growing season to keep yields to a minimum. Grapes are hand harvested using small containers, and brought to the winery for further sorting. Like all Moreau wines, the selection process is strict for this cuvée with only the highest quality grapes making their way to the fermentation. The must is fermented in stainless steel followed by 12 months of aging in the cellars. A small portion on the final blend is aged in oak cask.