2009 Domaine William Fevre Chablis Valmur Grand Cru 1.5 L

Year: 2009
Appellation: Chablis
Country: France
Wine Advocate: 93
Vinous Media: 92
Burghound: 92-95
White Wine
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"The 2009 Chablis Valmur is wonderfully seductive and harmonious. Today the fruit is radiant and expressive, but there is plenty of minerality underneath. Peaches, flowers, mint and smoke linger on a round, eternal finish graced with exquisite elegance, intensity and power. The acidity is higher here than in Vaudesir, but it certainly doesn’t seem that way, at least today. This is from the higher portion of Valmur, with an exposure that runs from east to due south all the way to west. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2019.

This is an impressive set of wines from William Fevre and winemaker Didier Seguier. The 2009 harvest began on September 14. Seguier claims the date of harvest has become increasingly important in recent years relative to the past, as warmer temperatures create a narrower window for optimal picking times. All of the wines at Fevre are partially fermented in oak, ranging from 5-10% for the entry-level wines up to 60-70% for the grand crus. Seguier prefers neutral barrels that are on average five years old. In general the entry-level wines are fermented with commercial yeasts, while the 1er and grand crus are fermented with indigenous yeasts. The wines spend four to six months in oak, and are then racked into steel for the completion of their elevage, which lasts about 15 months. The wines are aged on their lees with no batonnage throughout the entirety of this time. Approximately 80% of the estate’s 50 hectares are farmed biodynamically, including all of the 1er and grand crus. The 2009 and 2010 vintages were not kind to Fevre in terms of production. In 2009, insects with very selective appetites damaged 20+% of the crop, while in 2010 yields were down as much as 50% because of widespread shatter during flowering. As is the case throughout Chablis, the 2009s look to be wines built on fruit that are best-suited for early and mid-term drinking. Unfortunately, I was not able to taste the 2010s, a vintage Seguier describes as more classic, with acidities that are in line with the estate’s 2007s and 2008s. Fevre makes both a Domaine range and a Maison range. I have listed the wines separately for maximum clarity." (WA)

"Pale, bright yellow. Crushed rock and a smoky, silex-like character on the rather austere nose. Then broad and rich in the mouth, with intense citrus and mineral flavors nicely framed by ripe acidity. This really saturates the sides of the mouth. Plenty of sweet underlying fruit here, but this very long wine is still a baby. The lemony acidity carries through on the back end." (IWC)

" It's arguable that in 2009 that this is the most elegant and refined wine in the range as the ultra pure and airy white flower, citrus zest, iodine and oyster shell aromas complement to perfection the extremely fresh and silkily textured flavors blessed with ample amounts of acid-buffering dry extract that culminate in an explosive yet harmonious and sophisticated finale with perhaps a bit less youthful austerity than usual. I very much like this." (BH)