2009 Domaine William Fevre Chablis Vaillons 1er Cru 375 ml

Year: 2009
Appellation: Chablis
Country: France
Wine Advocate: 93
Vinous Media: 90
Burghound: 89-92
White Wine
Price :
$21.95
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"The 2009 Chablis Vaillons is strikingly beautiful. The aromatics alone are compelling, with layers of crushed rocks, oyster shells, white flowers and peaches that meld seamlessly into the palate. Smoke, ash and wet stones arrive later, adding further complexity, as the wine opens up on the finish. This is a superbly pedigreed wine of exceptional quality. The wine’s balance and overall sense of harmony are remarkable. Along with Vaudesir, Vaillons is among the first parcels to be harvested here, and was the first plot to be converted to biodynamic farming. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024.

This is an impressive set of wines from William Fevre and winemaker Didier Seguier. The 2009 harvest began on September 14. Seguier claims the date of harvest has become increasingly important in recent years relative to the past, as warmer temperatures create a narrower window for optimal picking times. All of the wines at Fevre are partially fermented in oak, ranging from 5-10% for the entry-level wines up to 60-70% for the grand crus. Seguier prefers neutral barrels that are on average five years old. In general the entry-level wines are fermented with commercial yeasts, while the 1er and grand crus are fermented with indigenous yeasts. The wines spend four to six months in oak, and are then racked into steel for the completion of their elevage, which lasts about 15 months. The wines are aged on their lees with no batonnage throughout the entirety of this time. Approximately 80% of the estate’s 50 hectares are farmed biodynamically, including all of the 1er and grand crus. The 2009 and 2010 vintages were not kind to Fevre in terms of production. In 2009, insects with very selective appetites damaged 20+% of the crop, while in 2010 yields were down as much as 50% because of widespread shatter during flowering. As is the case throughout Chablis, the 2009s look to be wines built on fruit that are best-suited for early and mid-term drinking. Unfortunately, I was not able to taste the 2010s, a vintage Seguier describes as more classic, with acidities that are in line with the estate’s 2007s and 2008s. Fevre makes both a Domaine range and a Maison range. I have listed the wines separately for maximum clarity." (WA)

"($35) Pale green-yellow. Aromas of white peach and dusty stone. Juicy, spicy and penetrating; less fleshy but more classic than the 2009 edition. Very precise and minerally Vaillons with excellent verve. I'd give this tightly wound, serious premier cru three or four years in the bottle before pulling the cork." (IWC)

"A notably ripe nose of white flower notes, spice hints plus citrus and sea breeze nuances, both of which can also be found on the textured and relatively concentrated middle weight flavors that possess plenty of energy and punch on the salty and linear finish." (BH)