2008 Marquis d'Angerville Volnay Champans 1er Cru

Year: 2008
Appellation: Cote de Beaune
Country: France
Wine Advocate: 91
Vinous Media: 91
Burghound: 91-93
Red Wine
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"Tart cherry, porcini, and game in the nose of the d’Angerville 2008 Volnay Champans lead to a sappy, bright mouthful of vivid red berries underlain by mushroom stock and following up with a saline, umami-rich, saliva-inducing finish. This has the purity and clarity, the brightness and energy that make this vintage so fascinating and appealing – at least to tasters for which these are important virtues. I suspect it will retain its energy for 10-12 years at least.

Guillaume d’Angerville and Renaud de Villette had good reason for their upbeat assessment of 2008 quality given the vintage’s travails, notably July hail that ravaged their Champans and parts of their villages and Bourgogne holdings, as well as touching other sites. The hail came too soon in the season, though, to have ill-effects on the eventual health of the fruit, and the team did not start picking until the 27th of September. With the exception of Clos des Ducs and Taillepieds – bottled the week of my April visit, but showing no ill-effects, au contraire – the 2008s were bottled in early March." (WA)

"Medium red. Enticing nose offers black cherry, flowers, red licorice and minerals. Suppler and broader but less refined on entry than the Taillepieds, with distinctly darker fruit flavors. Strong acidity ultimately gives this pure wine a youthfully austere character. Finishes with excellent length and spice character. This tight wine calls for five years of cellaring." (IWC)

"This is decidedly less elegant but actually a bit more complex with iron and earth notes adding interest to the cool red pinot fruit aromas that slide gracefully into rich and full-bodied flavors that are underpinned by quite firm and serious but ripe tannins and excellent length on the long, mouth coating and impressively intense finish. As it usually is, this is a relatively powerful wine with excellent aging potential." (BH)