2007 Von Hovel Scharzofberg Riesling Spatlese

Year: 2007
Appellation: Saar
Country: Germany
Wine Advocate: 91
White Wine
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"The von Hovel 2007 Scharzhofbeger Riesling Spatlese smells not just of peach, but of banana and nut oils. Plush and soothing though buoyant and refreshing on the palate, it emphasizes lightly-poached peach, nut paste, and vanilla, and finishes with striking subtlety of stony, saline, and somehow crystalline mineral characteristics. Reversing the roles of the relationship between the corresponding Kabinetts, this Scharzhofberger comes off as drier than its counterpart from the Hutte.

Ebernard von Kunow himself, along with many journalists, was harder his 2006 collection than was I. Still, the 2007s are more consistent; will certainly be longer-lived; and at the top end represent some of his most exhilarating and riveting wines ever. They were also picked within a relative narrow range of must weights (even allowing for considerable botrytis). -It was really just a matter of taste,- says von Kunow, -deciding what would become Kabinett, what Spatlese, and what Auslese. I did lengthy sorting in an attempt to bottle Beerenauslese, but in the end I concluded -it just isn't there.--" (WA)

Winery Notes:
The history of the estate goes back to the 12th century, when Monks constructed the property and cellar. The von Kunow family acquired the estate from Napoleon in 1806. Today, Eberhard von Kunow, the 6th generation of the family, runs the winery with his son Maximilian, who has just finished his education in oenology.

Tasting note:
Always an excellent value, and this year is no exception. The wine has pear aromas, followed by a round mouth with good acidity to support the raspberry flavors, and pineapple on the finish.

Food affinity:
Great to enjoy on its own, but also great with salads and spicy dishes including fusion cuisine.