2007 Von Hovel Oberemmeler Hutte Riesling Auslese

Year: 2007
Appellation: Saar
Country: Germany
Wine Spectator: 94
Wine Advocate: 93
Vinous Media: 91
White Wine
Price :
$29.95
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"A hint of lanolin lifts the peach and spice aromas, while the palate is defined by pure peach and mineral notes. It's all supported by a vibrant structure that propels the flavors to a long aftertaste. Best from 2011 through 2038. 250 cases made." (WS)

"Scents of honeysuckle, caramel, and nut brittle arise from the glass of von Hovel 2007 Oberemmeler Hutte Riesling Auslese, then mingle with honey, musk melon, and poached Bosc pear on a creamy, beautifully delicate and refined palate, finishing with praline and butter cream but at the same time transparency to nuances of stone and salt and tingling, tactile hints of citrus rind and pear skin. This Auslese from a single parcel -in which the grapes tasted best to me,- quips von Kunow, is a poster child for the lift and elegance of which 2007 is capable, and - while impossible to resist already in its youth - should reward cellaring for at least the next two decades.

Ebernard von Kunow himself, along with many journalists, was harder his 2006 collection than was I. Still, the 2007s are more consistent; will certainly be longer-lived; and at the top end represent some of his most exhilarating and riveting wines ever. They were also picked within a relative narrow range of must weights (even allowing for considerable botrytis). -It was really just a matter of taste,- says von Kunow, -deciding what would become Kabinett, what Spatlese, and what Auslese. I did lengthy sorting in an attempt to bottle Beerenauslese, but in the end I concluded -it just isn-t there.--" (WA)

"($70) Pale golden yellow. Floral aromas, along with melon and ginger. Tropical fruit and caramelized peach fill the mouth, nicely complemented by a delicately refreshing spice element. Crisp, finely balanced finish rich in mineral salts." (IWC)