2006 Les Heritiers du Comte Lafon Macon-Villages

Year: 2006
Appellation: Macon
Country: France
Vinous Media: 88
Burghound: 87
White Wine
Alcohol by Volume: 14.0%
Price :
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"($25) Pale yellow. Racy citrus and Anjou pear aromas are complicated by anise and pungent herbs. Clean, brisk and sharply focused, with good mineral bite and impressively deep orchard fruit flavors. Finishes firm, with dried pear and quince qualities echoing." (IWC)

"As Lafon suggested, this is very ripe with chardonnay fruit aromas introducing round, delicious and easy to like flavors but with good vibrancy and fine acid/fruit balance. Good quality for what this is." (BH)

Producer note:
Dominique Lafon reaffirmed what he has said from the very beginning, which is that "our vineyards are adapting very well to our biodynamic viticultural philosophy and after the last few years of putting various programs in place, the vines clearly are moving out of the transitionary phase. I'm very excited by this because it means that we should see even better fruit quality in the years ahead. As to 2006, it's definitely a very ripe year and the date of the harvest was even more important than it usually is. I waited until September 15th to begin the harvest, bringing in yields of 50 to 60 hl/ha and the sugars were sufficient that there was no chaptalization. Acidities were not as high as I like them however and while I didn't correct the acidities, I did block half the malos in some wines. Overall, 2006 is a nice if not a great vintage but because our fruit quality keeps climbing, we get a little better each vintage, or at least that's my impression." As is often the case chez Lafon, some of the malos were extremely long and slow and thus the Maranges was not rated.


Both of these medium bodied white wines from France exhibit classic non-oak Chardonnay character, as expressed in aromas and tastes of butterscotch, lemons, honeysuckle and ripe melons. Don’t look for any vanilla oaky quality from these 100% Chardonnay wines. Instead you’ll find a directly appealing most pleasant whites—though both have a longer finish then I was expecting before I tried the wine.

2006 MACON-VILLAGES is six years old and a priori you might think it a bit old for a Macon, but this is not the case with this wine. Though fully mature it certainly still has a fine acid balance and will stay that way for at least a couple more years. One of the outstanding features of this wine is that its estate bottled by one of the most prestigious producers of white Burgundy the heirs of the Comte Lafon. For example their Le Montrachets are incomparable wines that retail for around $1,500 a bottle. It’s the vineyard management and the superior wine making skills of the Lafon’s that give this Macon-Village a depth of flavor and complexity you don’t expect from such a modest priced Chardonnay from this appellation near the town of Lyon.

2010 BOURGOGNE “LES SETILLES” imparts a clean, zesty appeal, as one would expect from a younger wine. And part of the wines charm is in its youth, so enjoy now and for the next couple of years. Among the traits that appealed to me in this $14.95 wine (normal price is around $20) is its balance and sprightliness, along with the pronounced Chardonnay character that I mentioned above.

The appellation on this wine is simply Burgundy, or in French ‘Bourgogne”, coming from vineyards in the Cote de Beaune with possibly some Cote Chaloinse as well. The “Les Setilles” is not a vineyard but the brand name that the negoicant Olivier Leflaive gives to this “batch” of wine that he has vinified, aged and bottled himself.

RATING: Both 89-90

PRICE: $14.95

WHERE: Los Angeles Wine Co.

(Martin's Guide to Wine bargains)

Winery Notes:
Considered one of the finest winemakers in France, Dominique Lafon produces coveted white Burgundies from some of the greatest vineyards in the Cote de Beaune. Always hungry for new challenges, he purchased 14 hectares of vines in the Maconnais in 1999. He believes strongly in the potential of the region, but feels that too few vignerons have attempted to realize that potential. Thus, in the very same spirit he runs his renowned Meursault property, Dominique utilizes biodynamic viticulture, intense soil rejuvenation, tight yield control, and rigorous green harvesting to produce some of the most complex, vibrant and impressive wines the region has ever seen.