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"The 2015 Morgon has a clean and vibrant bouquet with perfumed dark cherries, redcurrant, a touch of gravel and touches of rose petal. The palate is nicely structured, brimming over with energy. The acidity is very well judged, quite sturdy as Morgon should be, no hard edges here but just the background "hum" of tension from start to finish. This is just a superb Morgon from Mathieu and Camille Lapierre.
Mathieu Lapierre was busy elsewhere when I visited and so after a short wait listening to what must be the loudest frogs in the world (they must be biodynamic), it was his sister Camille who escorted me through the wines. I have met her briefly before, a dynamic young vigneronne who, as well as making wines at the domaine, seems to be behind the thriving local music scene. Perhaps that is more important than ever these days - to take winemakers' minds off of the hailstorms that seem to plague Beaujolais in 2016. Camille travelled wine regions, honing her craft, between 2010 and 2013 before returning to the region to work alongside Mathieu and the siblings share responsibilities around the winery at the moment. Probably the big news in 2015 is that they decided not to make a separate non-sulphite cuvée of their Morgon in 2015. "The 2015 vintage is the first time we have not made a Morgon without sulphur," Camille told me. "There was a high level alcohol so it was hard for the yeast to finish fermenting the sugar and we were afraid of the stability of wine. So we added 15 mg/liter added at the time of bottling. It was a big decision to make. I had often discussed with Mathieu - what would happen if we didn't have the sulphite and non-sulphite cuvées, as our father had always made it." Tasting through their 2014s and 2015s I was impressed by the purity and energy in these wines. In particular the 2015 Morgon Cuvée Camille, due to be bottled the following day, just seemed to light up the senses. Unfortunately I could not taste the 2015 Morgon Cuvée Marcel Lapierre since it was still fermenting! These wines come highly recommended whether the idea of biodynamics turns you on or not - they are just great wines that are a joy to drink.
Located in Villié-Morgon, the vines are 45 years old in average and are extended on 11 hectares with 1 on “Côte du Py”.
- Cultivated with the “Organic” method, we are only undertaking (at the beginning of 2006) to do steps with certificating organizations.
- Furthermore, for 3 years, we are testing the bio dynamic on some lands of old vines.
- Since 2001, we are buying grapes on foot (hand harvest made by us) the harvesting of some good parcels of Morgon cultivated according to our ideal.