REMARKABLE MOSEL RIESLING FROM THE GREAT J.J. PRUM FOR $29.95 2014 WEHLENER SONNUNUHR KABINETT, Est. Btld. J.J. PRUM
"The 2014 Riesling Wehlener Sonnenuhr Kabinett is more open than the Graacher Himmelreich (#AP 19) and displays a very delicate bouquet of white fruits intermixed with vegetal and subtle slate aromas. Refined and juicy on the palate, this wine has a perfect balance of a fruity sweetness and a finely racy acidity. This Kabinett is very expressive and complex in its mineral and grippy finish. It is impressively long in the finish, but due to the piquancy and minerality, not due to alcohol that is just 8%. The Sonnenuhr is more complex and intense than the more delicate and filigreed Himmelreich. Dr Manfred Prüm says, "2014 was a very expensive harvest. We made a brown harvest when we negative-selected all rotten grapes. We had to do a pre-selection because the maturity of the berries on one grape was not homogenous. Therefore, we picked the top vineyards rather late. We started the main harvest after ten days, since the acidity levels went down. So we accepted 20% to 25% of green grapes and 5% of noble rot. Towards the end of the harvest we picked the noble botrytis grapes, which was again a selection between rot and noble rot." The result of the 2014 harvest contains Kabinett, Spätlese and Auslese Rieslings including the Gold Cap from the Graacher Himmelreich. There is no Auslese from the Zeltinger Sonnenuhr in 2014 "because there was simply no time to select it." A good Auslese has been picked in the old, steep part of the Bernkasteler Lay and there the Badstube a Spätlese and Auslese were selected. In Graach, there was more noble rot in 2014 and team JJ Prüm picked this vineyard at the latest." (WA)
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