"The 2014 Morgon "Jean Descombes" has a vibrant bouquet of black cherry, redcurrant and black olive scents that are harmonious and focused. The palate is medium-bodied with good weight in the mouth, a gentle grip, quite linear at the moment, but with appreciable weight and fruit intensity on the finish. There is fine mineralité locked into this Morgon that, like the Côte du Py, should be afforded one or two years to develop in bottle.
This year I tasted Georges Dubouef's wines both in Beaujolais and with their UK importer, Georges and his son Frank flying over to London for the occasion. There were numerous flights of wine covering almost all the appellations in Beaujolais, yet Georges was able to recall the details of them all. He told me that in 2014 there was a "miraculous week" at the end of August and the following month that provided excellent conditions for the harvest, which commenced between September 12 and 15. "We were able to obtain very good ripeness and acidity," he explained. "Alcohol levels came in between 11.5 and 12.0 without chaptalization." He continued by stating how it was important to pick and bottle the 2014s at the right moment. We started with the Beaujolais Villages and in 2014, Georges felt that there was what you might call an "altitudinal sweetspot" between 250 and 400-meters that provided good structure and fruit concentration. He also pointed out how altitude makes such a difference, resulting in some 15 days difference in picking dates depending on contour lines. He feels that all the appellations in Beaujolais produced good wines in 2014, though when we moved toward Fleurie, there were some noticeable differences between the labels. In terms of the market, he said that Brouilly was in strong demand, especially in Parisian bars and brasseries, Fleurie the Beaujolais of choice over in the strong market of Japan. As usual, this wide portfolio offers great value, and the truth is you only have to peel off a couple more dollar bills to get yourself a better wine. Something I did notice was the inescapable differences between the 2013 and 2014s, the latter far superior in terms of fleshiness and fruit concentration than the former." (WA)