"The 2014 Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru Les Vergelesses comes from the domaine's 0.75-hectare of 50-year-old vines bought in 2003. It has a slightly static nose at the moment, especially when compared to the excellent 2014 Nuits Saint-Georges Les Plateaux. With aeration it begins to open and offer light floral aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannin, a little rigid in the mouth and does not quite flow like its fellow 2014s from Mongeard-Mugneret. Afford this a couple of years in bottle to see if it will settle down, because this seems rather disjointed at the moment.
The last time I visited Domaine Mongeard-Mugneret was when I was tasting their 2005s back in January 2007. It had been too long and with word on the street that their wines had improved in recent years, I thought it would be an opportune moment to knock on their doors once again. I was met by Vincent Mongeard, who has an impressive array of holdings at his disposal, including enviable locations in both Grands-Echézeaux and Richebourg among many others that total around 30-hectares over 35 appéllations. The wines undergo a short cold maceration, are 100% destemmed, and then the wines are fermented in 25- to 60-hectolitre stainless steel tanks. The grand crus are aged in 60% to 100% new oak, the premier and village crus between 30% and 50%, in particular from the forest of Tronçais that Vincent selects personally. It was a profitable visit. Whereas previously I felt that the general quality ought to be higher, more commensurate with their holdings, I found greater precision and terroir expression than in the past. I recommend reacquainting yourself with Mongeard-Mugneret just like I did this year." (WA)
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