"The 2014 Vosne Romanée 1er Cru Clos des Réas comes from Michel's triangular, walled monopole towards the south of the village. It has a slight stemminess on the nose that is nicely defined, very natural, the fruit black rather than red, evolving a light marine accent with time. The palate is energetic and tensile on the entry with blackcurrant, raspberry and a touch of bitter lemon towards the chalky textured finish. This is quite a complex Clos des Réas this year from Michel and one I look forward to revisiting once in bottle.
It is always a pleasure to visit Michel Gros, whose domaine nestles alongside various branches of the Gros family (actually next door to Lamarche). Perhaps the big news was that he introduced two cuvées of his Hautes Côtes de Nuits Rouge, having finally acquired the final piece of the jigsaw of the lieu-dit Fontaine Saint Martin seven years ago -- a piece that necessitated replanting. This formed a monopole, which Michel now bottles separately, though both the regular bottling and this come recommended in 2014. His wines had been racked just before the 2015 harvest and he told me that the malolactics were late, a couple still not finished.
"Spring was dry and warm," Michel told me as I tasted through his wines up in his office. "The summer was warm and cold, and in July and August it was one or two degrees below normal. The suzukii appeared two or three weeks before the harvest that started on September 15 and finished around September 28 in the Hautes Côtes de Nuits. That was the main problem of the vintage. I did a rigorous sorting on a table de trie, but it is difficult because you can't see it, you can smell it and you have to open the bunches. The good thing is that the alcohol fermentation can reverse the bacterial acetic affect. It was a big stress, it was very worrying."
This was a very fine set of wines from Michel, perhaps over my expectations given that the vintage was not a shoo-in for the reds. Perversely for 2014, there are a couple of village crus that really surpassed themselves, namely the Nuits-Saint-Georges and the sublime Chambolle-Musigny. Both are premier cru quality. His Clos de Vougeot is one of the best Michel has ever produced while at the other end, his debut Haute Côtes de Nuits Fontaine St Martin shows that up there in the hills you can find bona fide quality." (WA)
"Like several of the wines in the range the nose is a markedly pungent combination of wood toast and reduction that renders it impossible to assess. Otherwise there is a more refined mouth feel to the slightly less concentrated medium-bodied flavors that culminate in a velvety, dusty and palate coating finale that is a bit less structured." (BH)
It was in 1830 that the GROS family set up in Vosne-Romanée. Today, Michel GROS, sixth generation of this dynasty of winemakers, continues and develops the work undertaken by his ancestors, as do his sister (Domaine AF Gros), his brother (Domaine Gros Frère et Soeur) and his cousin (Domaine Anne Gros). Passionate but also very rigorous, Michel GROS brings constant care to the development of his wines, by mastering all the stages of production, from vine through to bottling. Modest and unassuming, he expresses himself through his wines: generous, fine, elegant, of reliable and even quality.